Sunday, May 28, 2017

England Trip Day 5 -- Dover

When Ben and I were planning our trip we decided that each of us would make our own list of things we wanted to see and do.  Both of our lists were almost identical except Ben had listed Dover on his list and I had listed Chatsworth House on mine.  So we each got our own day and Saturday was Ben's.

We took an hour train ride out of London's St. Pancras station.  Originally we thought that we were going to be leaving out of King's Cross so that we could see Platform 9 3/4.  But these two stations are completely separate from one another but both provide the same types of trains etc.  Sort of weird.

We were in a rush to make it to the train we wanted and grabbed this bacon, egg, and cheese pastry at Pret on our way for breakfast.  Incredible.

The train drops you off at one end of Dover and you have to walk all the way across the town and up to the top of the cliffs where the castle sits.  It doesn't look very high up in this picture, but trust me, that hike was a beast.  We were almost to the entrance when it crossed our minds that we could have just taken a bus ride up.  Good times.

Dover is such a cute town! (Though not as clean as London)


Looking down over Dover from the castle.

Ben and a small trebuchet.


The first thing we did was explore the 12th century tunnels.  That was when I first thought to myself, "Oh Heather.  The first day you decided to make a gamble by wearing flip flops and it was in dark, wet, bumpy, uneven tunnels."  That was a poor decision.  So if you go to Dover, don't wear flip flops.



This is what the floor looked like.  To clarify, those rocks are large -- this isn't an up close image.  So yes, flip flops are a bad idea.

Their source of light and air.



These walls definitely look 12th century, don't you think?

This is the keep.



Medieval castles have always seemed cool to me until I actually went through the Tower of London and Dover castle and then I thought, meh.  Honestly, living conditions weren't that comfortable and it wasn't all that glamorous.

Owning anything with color marked you as someone wealthy.  Keeping linens died meant that you never washed them.  So all the bedding and clothes were never washed.  Only poor people washed their clothes.  The guide told us that their blankets were usually full of lice and fleas.  Gross.

Also, something I learned was that up until the mid 19th century, people never slept lying down because they superstitiously believed that the devil would mistake them for being dead and take their spirit in the night.  Everyone slept sitting up.  All the beds were just long enough for your legs to stretch out in.  Also, in castles like this, even the wealthy would have several people (20+) sleeping in the same room as them.  Bedrooms weren't really a thing in the middle ages.

A small chapel within the keep.

On the roof of the keep.

The castle's main chapel next to a Roman lighthouse that was built in the 1st century.



And of course, more stairs.

This trip gave me a real appreciation of how handicapped friendly America is.  But it's hard to judge Europe for being so old, ha.

We went to gift shops everywhere we visited.  Ben was in heaven in the Dover gift shop.  And yes, he did buy a 1/4 sized working crossbow.  I think the sales guy was so excited that he sold something in one of the glass displays that he pulled out some swords for Ben to play with too.  Ben really wanted to buy a sword, too, to keep with his civil war sword, but this wife said no for baggage weight purposes.

 We had a meat pastie and an onion and cheese one.  Both were delicious.  The deserts were both awesome as well.  The chocolate caramel shortbread is apparently called "millionaire's shortbread."  Both the sodas were disgusting.  Lots of people use rose flavoring in their treats in Great British Bake Off, but unless you're a fan of eating potpourri, we don't recommend it.
The Roman light house


Using WWII binoculars that looked out toward the sea.

Flag codes to relay messages




You can see a tiny bit of the white cliffs.

I loved Dover because of its green steep hills.  We were up so high on the cliffs that the clouds just barely went above the rooftops of the houses and castle.  It was surreal.



Looking towards Dover
(and the long, but downhill, walk back to the train station)




Back in the '70's they were digging so that they could build a car park (sorry, I had to) when they came across this Roman painted house.


They basically built a roof over it and had a really poorly maintained "museum" around it.  It looked like nothing had changed or been touched since they built it.  Ben and I thought it was sad how shabby the surroundings were but I also had to admit that practically anyone in England who dug deep enough in their backyard would find something of value buried.  The government can't fund everything.  England has thousands of years of history to maintain!

Dover was amazing.  We're both so glad we went.  But it was in Dover that my knee slowly started getting sore and became so painful I could barely walk.  I had to use Ben as a crutch when it became agonizing.  But when we got back to London I went straight for the hotel while he ran out to a pharmacy to grab me a knee brace which was a life saver for the rest of the trip.

England Trip Day 4 -- Globe Theater, St. Paul's Cathedral, Westminster Abbey

First thing Friday morning we went straight to Shakespeare's Globe Theatre and took a tour of it.  It isn't the original theater (that one burned down during a performance a few hundred years ago) and isn't in the exact same place, but it's fairly close and is an *almost* exact replica save for a few technological advances.

The wealthy sat in the higher balconies nearest the stage so that they would be seen by everyone, even if that meant not having a great view of the play.We got to watch them rehearse Romeo and Juliet for a few minutes.


We were excited about checking out the gift shop and getting something with our last name written on it, just to find all the Macbeth products weren't exactly our taste...

The Millenium Bridge (the ones the Death Eaters destroyed) takes you straight from the Globe to St. Paul's Cathedral, so we walked across it which was very convenient.



Ben was the one to convince me that we should take time to tour St. Paul's and I'm so glad he did.  I had no idea how gorgeous it was.We spent a couple of hours there.

A very London view from St. Paul's.


At the entrance to St. Paul's is a statue of Christ.  The artist wanted to make him look very plain and normal, which I think is very touching.

(All the pictures inside churches or abbeys are courtesy of google)

Like many cathedrals, St. Paul's is in the shape of a cross.  You sit in the center of the cross for church services.  At all the different churches we visited, most of them took the opportunity to have a moment where everyone stopped looking around so a prayer could be said over the speakers.  It was a very reverent experience.

You can climb up to the dome in the ceiling to two different levels.  Only the whispering galleries (the lower level) were open when we visited and the main staircase was also closed for maintenance.  So we had to take a tightly wound staircase in the back to reach it.  Now, I have climbed lighthouses before, but St. Paul's made me feel like I was going to die.  

The upper level is called the "whispering galleries" because you can whisper into the wall and hear the message on the far side of the dome thanks to its circular shape.  It was bizarre to hear different whispers coming from different directions.  

(So you get the idea of how big it is)



For lunch we stopped at chain restaurant called "Pret."  We ate there a few times because their food was so good.  We were excited to try our first Victoria Sponge (it was everything we hoped it would be) and a delicious chocolate praline.  

We then walked over to Westminster Abbey where there was a huge line to get in.  

Tomb of the unknown soldier surrounded by red poppies.


Queen Elizabeth I's tomb.

Her rival, Mary Queen of Scots, is buried on the exact opposite side of Elizabeth.  It was Mary's son's way of getting revenge with Elizabeth when he inherited her crown.


Wesminster is also huge.  It was built shortly before 1066 when William the Conqueror defeated King Harold.  William was crowned on Christmas day.  It was so interesting to hear how important 1066 was in England because it changed how the entire country lived.  

Ben was awestruck to be standing in a place where centuries of kings had been crowned, and I was awestruck to be standing in the place where William and Kate got married.  Ha!

We saw sooooo many tombs.  So. Many.


They had a section of the Abbey dedicated to famous English writers called "Poet's Corner."





Ben's uncle Richard mentioned to us that he had an ancestor who was buried here: Anne Bracegirdle.  Apparently she was the first woman actress to work under Shakespeare and was a favorite at court.  She had a duel fought over her as well.  Cool stuff!  We were so glad we were able to find her tomb with the help of the Westminster staff.

The view over Anne's grave.



The corridor that Anne was buried in.



Since we still had some time left in the day, we walked down to Buckingham Palace and on the way we got to see the militia practicing for the Queen's birthday celebration in June.



Then we came back to our hotel...

... to have a very healthy dinner.